close your mind-tracks and leave fantastically

me today

2007-05-30T17:44:00.000+02:00

Go Turtleocity!

2007-04-17T12:07:00.001+02:00

As Our Man rightly reminded me, I have a turtle fighting for her life right now, travelling from Costa Rica to the Galapagos. Obviously, and luckily, Turtleocity is not doing it by herself. There with another 10 friends...and guess where my turtle is??? Number 8.

Call for support, love and affection for Turtleocity. Check out her progress on Great Turtle Race and give her all the energy you can.

Check this out for live coverage.

I couldn't have asked for a better turtle, I'm soooo proud.

more on Turtleocity

2007-04-17T13:44:00.000+02:00

tourists or travellers?

2007-04-02T11:54:00.000+02:00

Here follows Alex Kapranos' last article for The Guardian's Sound Bites:

Sound Bites

End of the road

In the last column charting his gastronomic adventures around the world with Franz Ferdinand, Alex Kapranos is appalled by British table manners in Prague

Friday August 25, 2006
The Guardian

This is Prague. It's time to stop writing about food. There's a booth selling sweet dough that has been wrapped around a metal cylinder, roasted then coated with sugar, steam rising from the hollow stack like smoke from an Ottoman chimney. I'm in the main square by the astrological clock. It seems to be on the side of a church, in a marriage of superstition and religion. The queue for the sweet chimneys is about 15 long when the stallholder announces that he is shutting. He has run out of dough. Disappointment ripples along the queue like a domino rally. It reaches two teenage British girls with pink faces and heavy backpacks. It's too much for them. Consternation propels them to the lip of the stall, where the last of the chimneys is being handed over. They have an unquestionable sense of privately educated self-assurance. Girl One fixes the stallholder with an upturned nose and schoolteacher gaze. She barks like a vicar's wife.

"You can't possibly close! We're leaving tomorrow!"

The stallholder glances at her.

"I said, we're leaving TOMORROW!"

Girl Two pulls an anxious face that begs "please" like a dog at a dinner table. "Sorry, we have no more," says the stallholder.

"God, I just can't believe these people," huffs Girl One as they turn their backs on the chimneys. I think something similar. I don't know how many times Prague has been invaded, but tonight it seems to have been invaded by wankers: British wankers, German wankers, North African wankers and American wankers.

A tourist in his early 20s is explaining to another tourist in her early 20s that he is not a tourist: he is a "traveller". They have a tourist map spread on the cafe table in front of them, by the English translation of the menu. He is saying that his experience is richer. He looks, smells and acts like a tourist. I don't get it. Because he stays in a hostel rather than a hotel, is the veritas more veritable? Or is he just a git?

I'm a tourist. I tour the world. I don't feel I have to excuse myself. The travelling bit is dull. In my mind, that is standing around baggage belts hoping that my case hasn't been lost again. Of course I'm a bloody tourist. I don't have the insider's perspective. I feel like a stranger everywhere I go. I like that perspective. In restaurants, I love to sit with my back to the wall so I can watch the other diners. You see what authors and film-makers attempt to capture, but in real time.

Just because you're a tourist, it doesn't mean you have to behave obnoxiously. If anything, you should behave better than you normally would. Two great British cliches are a) to presume that if you are in someone else's country you can do what the hell you like and b) that if you are in a band it's obligatory to behave like a boorish thug.

The festival site feels like an abandoned cosmonaut holiday camp. Loose tiles fall into the paddling pool. The rusted umpire's chair has toppled over by the overgrown tennis courts. In the murk of the surrounding forest are shadows of buildings that could have been dormitories or centrifugal test chambers. Tinny loudspeakers broadcast bloc versions of easy classics: the Cornetto tune, Edelweiss, the one about the meatball rolling down a hill, all with soft Czech vocals. There's a huge home-welded spit and brazier.

The fire has settled to steady embers and two men grunt as they lift a meat-covered pole on to a ratchet system connected to an old engine. The meat must weigh more than either of them. It looks incredible, like a medieval feast transported to the mid 20th-century. Ministry are setting up on stage one. A tech is erecting the skull-encrusted microphone stand. The Pet Shop Boys are setting up on stage two. They are working out how the dancers can burst from the neon-lit white cube. We're somewhere in the middle.

In two weeks we'll play the Reading and Leeds festivals: the climax of a year and a half of touring. It has been an intense adventure - crawling across the planet, performing to millions of people. Each night as I walk on to the dark stage, the white light of the strobes and the white noise of the crowd send a wave of adrenalin to my heart, setting off a vascular explosion that feels as if it could kill me.

The blood feels as if it'll burst from the fingertips as the arteries fling it through my flesh. Before my pick flicks the strings, my toes have already flipped me into the air, hovering over the boards in a fast-frame of anticipation.

It's time to stop. You can only play the same songs a certain number of times before you get bored. It's time to stop because it is still exciting. It's time to stop because I need to live somewhere that isn't a bus or a hotel room. It's time to stop touring, so it's time to stop writing about food. What I eat at home isn't interesting. It's the same as anyone else.

This is how it started

2007-03-30T22:14:00.000+02:00

In red the itinerary taken during the month and half travelling - conditions? no flights. In the end we took all means of transport on roads and rivers. In the next few days details will follow.

Just as an indication, destinations were:

- Nha Trang

- Saigon or Ho Chi Minh City

- My Tho, Can Tho and Chau Doc on the Mekong Delta

- Phnom Penh

- Senmonorom

- Kratie

- Siem Reap and Angkor Temples

- Battambang (don't miss this one!)

- Phnom Penh

- Sihanoukville (another one not to miss)

- Bangkok

Same time, same place.

still a little homesick

2007-03-30T22:05:00.000+02:00

my friends Hang, Quy (visit him at Baguette & Chocolat SaPa and you'll be given the warmest welcome), Violaine, Chi, Van, Nhung, Phuong, Phuong and Lan.

Salentu: lu sule, lu mare, lu ientu....vafammokk'

2007-03-30T10:21:00.000+02:00

translation for our foreign readers: "Salentwind: the sun, the sea, the wind....bless the heart and soul of that talented tour operator/local politician/folk singer who came up with this poetic little phrase"

My Sputnik Sweetheart

2007-03-29T11:35:00.000+02:00

Ok, decided it's useless to be shy about it, and that it's time to introduce you to my travelling companion, Liam.

Obviously, travelling companion is somewhat limitative to describe a veeeeeeery special person...but there you go.

Stole the title from a book by Haruki Murakami, which kept me entertained during the 22 hours train journey from Hanoi to Nha Trang - but I'll get to that when it's the right time.

What now?

2007-03-29T10:48:00.000+02:00

Ok, so the situation is the following. I left my work in the UK under pretences that it would be a one year sabbatical. The year expired last August, and I’m not too confident that they’re so desperate to want me back.
More than that, I think my life has now taken a completely different path, where, for as much as it could always be an option, going back now would simply not make any sense.

I see my professional and personal experience so far as a creative and positive lying of bricks, where all I have learned and seen will never be taken away from me.

Now the one thing that I can think of that would make sense for me to do, and that I am quite excited about, is to do a masters degree in something called “Intercultural Communications” in Cambridge. Yet another obsessions of mine, which I will not bore you with.
But that’s what I’m going to do.

I do, however, take this opportunity to ask for your (kind) advice on how to apply for funding for masters courses that are totally extortionate? What do to? Where to go? Etc etcet et.
For the best piece of advice, the price will be a signed picture of me scoffing that cheese sandwich I’ve been fantasising on all day today.

Before Europe, however, I will take the advantage of the time off to do all that I didn’t do during my time in Vietnam, and that is to travel. I am not doing this by myself, of course…. But I’m too shy to share this piece of information. South Vietnam, Cambodia and Bangkok are our next destinations. If I’m disciplined enough, you’ll have it all here.

I will keep you posted with all that happens, and this time I’m going to keep the promise!

So long, cheerio.

All my love to...

2007-03-29T10:09:00.000+02:00

Phuong - my close colleague and friend - she flew away to France last September to do a postgraduate course

Le Maketing - Van, Chi, Toan, Phuong, Phuong and Violaine.

Welfare staff at Hoa Sua

Huyen "la naive"

Chi Linh - a very special person

and, and, and....Chung, Nga, Nhung, Hung, Nguyen, and all at VSO; all the volunteers....so many people and all very very special to me in so many different ways. Thank you for making this year such a special year, and for giving me your time and your laughter. I will miss you all!

Getting soft again, better go now!

Intro

2007-03-29T09:28:00.000+02:00

You may have realised that I've not posted in a long time. I hope you didn't think that that was the end of my VSO experience, and that I was going to leave without saying goodbye?!?!

NO. Just went travelling and didn't always have internet access or inspiration.

Here follows (in the magic blogging world - upwards) an attempt to share the last two months.

Oooh, I also couldn't wait to post this picture - check out Mr Bush and Mr Putin loving their Ao Dais!!

What I have left behind

2007-03-29T09:48:00.000+02:00

thought and written on 18th February

I’m writing this from a hotel room two weeks after the end of my placement, overdue post that I’ve been rehearsing in my head for a long long time. For as much as it has come later than I wanted, I am glad I waited. Now that I’m in Phnom Penh, and the two weeks travelling that I’ve done so far, have given me the chance to think through my year in Hanoi, at Hoa Sua and as a VSO volunteer.

The last month or so in Hanoi were not easy. Throughout the year I, like other people I’ve met in Vietnam, went through very intense highs and lows, more so than anywhere else I’ve ever lived. And yet, if that can make sense, these feelings kind of got together during my last few weeks in Hanoi. I was ecstatically happy for all that was to come with the end of my placement with VSO – the adrenaline rush that novelty and the unknown bring, as well, of course, the prospect of seeing my family, relatives and friends (and stuffing myself with cheese).

At the same time, I was struck by an unspeakable sadness to leave the place that has undoubtedly become my second home. For a little more spice, sprinkle that sense of duty that will not allow you to leave without thinking that a year is certainly not enough, and if you could only do an extra six months…But I knew that if I did decided to extend, that would probably have been the beginning of an endless request for extensions, and sometimes, when a chapter has to close, it has to close. I think I’m beginning to be clever at that.

So – conclusions on the experience? It was a spectacular year – without a doubt. It’s been the year that has given me the chance to learn so much about myself. I am working at the accepting part now. It’s also been the year in which I understood the real meaning of humbleness, determination, acceptance in situations where you have very little control over situations. In other words, I think Vietnam has taught me how to let go, with a smile.

I have left so many friends back in Hoa Sua – and to all of them I am grateful for giving me such a fabulous and rewarding time. Most of all, though, I have left my little sisters, Hieu and Nhung, and that hurts more than I ever imagined.

Hieu and Nhung are the girls with whom I’ve shared my days throughout the last 6 months. It’s certainly not been easy on them: not only did they have to put up with my crazy ideas on how we could improve communications, but most importantly, they had to learn what communications is, and does, and means, introduce it as a whole new concept to the entirety of Hoa Sua, and develop tools that would facilitate the whole process, whilst integrating in a new environment, and and and.. Pant pant…and they’re doing in it. They’re doing it. All by themselves.

I have to laugh now to how I kept panicking throughout my time in Hoa Sua, wondering what would be the impact of my presence there. And there’s a story that I like to tell:
One day, towards the end of one of our regular meetings I asked them: “What would you like me to focus on during these last few weeks?”
They looked at each other, exchanged a few words in Vietnamese, giggled and said: “We’d like you to teach us how to be positive like you”.

Pop!

We’ve come long way, through happiness, disappointment, hilarity, anger, and more, and we’ve taught each other and learned from each other – I am totally confident now that I don’t need to be here for them, because they will know how to develop what we started together.

What they don’t realise? Is that it’s them who’ve taught me the secret of being positive!

Allow me another anecdote to show something else that fills me with pride.
On my last day, as I was saying my goodbyes in my usual clumsy manner, one of the girls said to me: Patty, would it be ok if we keep asking for your help even when you’re home?
To which I replied: Of course, you can count on me, always.
And after a brief pause:
“Yes, thank you. But Patty, we want to be able to do this independently”.

At which point I had to kiss them goodbye and run away.

Here they are! Hieu on the left and Nhung on the right..

Happy New Jear!!!

2007-01-01T08:44:00.000+01:00

So, goodbye to 2006 - what a sweet little year full of many amazing things. Welcome 2007, hoping it will be just as amazing and sweet. But maybe for other people as well as just myself...(don't say I'm selfish now).

So, pretty subdued, but happy new year's celebrations last night in Hanoi - spent with friends in Mao's Red Bar. Incidentally, I would like to use this opportunity to let you know that Mao's Red Bar is the coolest bar in Hanoi - if you're here at some stage do go for a drink in the super chilled, red-lit, happy Hanoian favourite on Ta Hien Street.
Owner is wonderful Mao, who will take you under his wing if you happen to stop over in Hanoi for a couple of days.

Happy days,
but most of all Happy New Year.

this is what I'm soon going back to

2007-01-16T06:35:00.000+01:00

...and I can't wait!

missing all of you - including those I had no pics of!

new year, new audience in the neuron-free zone

2007-01-04T11:25:00.000+01:00

Liam drinking one of the two units of alcohol a day he limits himself to

Hee-Lah-Ree! (-tee @ Xmas in Ha Noi)

2006-12-26T07:09:00.000+01:00

What's the intelligent expression on my face? What is Hee-Lah-Ree sneering at?
It's all a mystery - due to copious amounts of Bia Ha Noi on the 16 hour long train journey from Da Nang to Hanoi last June.

Happy memories of being let out of the compartment to buy more cans, talking shite, and leaning on my friend whilst she was defending my cause (probable story).

Don't know what I'm writing, it doesn't matter. It's Christmas after all...

2006 Christmas menu:
More Bia Ha Noi (bottled version)
some food
being reminded how beo (fat) I am becoming
buon dua le=bonsolee=gossip
massive hangover
work - pretending to
wine and more food
more wine
Feliz Navidad, Feliz Navidad, Feliz Navidad, Prospero Ano y felicidad....on all the friggin time and me beginning to twitch every time I hear it.

A verry Mery Christ mas.

Con-d-om?

2006-12-15T07:30:00.000+01:00

Seen the title? I thought it would be a great idea for the VSO stand at the latest "For the Love of Life" event in Hanoi - an annual fair in which disability, HIV/AIDS and International Volunteers days are "celebrated" jointly on 3rd December for awareness-raising and generally to give us VSOs (and ok, other NGOs too) the chance to catch a cold.

So back to the title. Being responsible for the idea of the HIV/AIDS stand to promote condom-fitting training on different fruits and vegetables, I was looking for a name to attract the shy Vietnamese teenagers. So how about Con-D-Om?
Con= Children (as in kids but also sons and daughters)
D= go (the word is actually di)
Om= hug (it can be a meaningless hug - like on the Xe Om; or something else like Karaoke Om)

I thought it was a pretty amazingly creative idea, which, ok, admittedly would leave a lot of room for misunderstanding and disturbing thoughts. Hence it was not used.

This did not take away the coolness of the HIV AIDS stand though.
A basketful of carrots, cucumbers, corn on the cob, courgettes (I'm not convinced they were, but hey) and many many many condoms.

Stole the idea from the condom race that the Welfare staff at Hoa Sua get the new students to do during the HIV AIDS training, and it's granted to be loads of fun.

So anyway - tactic was, lure them in with a survey on knowledge on HIV/AIDS, and then catch them quickly for the condom fitting. Soon enough, the stand was surrounded by what seemed to be billions of people of all ages and backgrounds...

Before anyone actually grasped a cucumber and a condom, I would give a demonstration on how to fit one properly. Honestly, if I didn't know then, I certainly did after fitting an average of 10 condoms per hour. And you tell me if you can beat that. Ah ah.

Besides the joke, it was probably one of the most amazing things I ever did. After a while, many deaf people who would refuse to do it, hold a condom, or just take one, because they were too "stupid" to ever have sex, this guy came as enthusiastic as one can be. He is deaf himself and took over the show completely, showing people - whether young or old, with disabilities or not, how to answer the questionnaire, and how to fit a condom (we're still talking cucumbers and carrots here). It was a very powerful statement in Vietnam and I am proud to have witnessed it.

And then, here comes a little girl (LG), to whom I smile and start chatting:

LG: Have you got any Femidoms?

me: ehh, not yet, but we'll have them later

LG: What's your name?

me: my name is Patty! what's your name? (as i'm busily throwing used condoms in a plastic bag)

LG: (Can't remember). How many condoms do you use, Patty?

me: Eheh, not many, I'm afraid

LG: NO?!?!?

me: no...

LG: Are you pregnant?

me: no.

LG: Ah, but looking at you, I thought you were!

me: ehm, no.

LG: Are you married?

me: no.

LG: AH?! OH?!? UH?!?! (look of utter and complete disbelief and disgust) not married?!?!? How old are you?

me: 30! (ya little #@&%$&#?!?)

LG: But you're sooo old!!!

me: (clocking someone looking from afar) Helllooooo! Would you like to fill in a questionnaire?....

Photos: Mike's - one taken from the insides of Mr OK!

today

2006-12-14T13:01:00.000+01:00

Today it was a generally mind-blowing experience...noticed so many new things:

"Gloria, in excelsis deu" (hope it's spelt right) is now a dance remix song, which must be the Hanoian hit of the end of the year, as I heard it twice only today - once in the Pho place I had lunch in, and on my way to the bus stop
My bus, number 31, is the whackiest bus in Hanoi - before n.31 comes along, numbers 8 and 2 have been coming and going about a dozen of times each
My bus, number 31, is always mega crowded. Numbers 2 and 8 are constantly empty - but not number 31 - could it be a consequence of point 1?
My bus, number 31, attracts the most adventurous Hanoian bus drivers. If bus numbers 2 and 8 come in and go away nice and slowly, number 31 comes in and goes threatening to kill everyone, whether you're outside or inside the bus. Could it be a consequence of points 1+2?
Hence, my bus, number 31, is the whackiest bus in town.
My bus, number 31, in many occasions makes me happy. This morning I found a seat, and the radio played Franz Ferdinand and The Kaiser Chiefs.
Even Vietnamese mannequins can't button up Vietnamese jeans
I heard the sound of a (live) turkey today. I associated it to the sound I hear first thing in the morning. Funny how realisation comes just before Christmas.

Ladies and Gentlemen...

2006-11-29T15:43:00.000+01:00

These laser eyes belong to my guardian angel, Anne-Marie, and her two cats...

Post Bike Ride Update

2006-11-28T07:30:00.000+01:00

I CAN WALK - NO PAIN.

Just thought you may be interested.

Tschuess!!

A fortune teller once told me

2006-11-27T10:55:00.000+01:00

Now close your eyes and imagine you're reading this in June 2006, because what I'm writing goes back to that month.

During the VSO Annual Volunteer Conference in Hoi An, one of the many activities/trainings organised was a session with a Fortune Teller.

You see, here in Viet Nam, Fortune Telling is a very important job. They will be able to tell you when the auspicious date to fly out of the country is, when the best date to get married is, what year you should have babies in, and just about anything else that you may have slight control over.

Those who know me back home, also know, not only that I love and am totally fascinated by the supernatural powers of people with the 6th sense, but I actually do believe in it....but please, don't use this against me.

To start off with, I will have you know that I am a flying dragon...there's no better species to be and I'm going to be lucky and rich and beautiful for the rest of my life. mmmh.

So anyway, the fortune teller at Hoi An told me that:

I am romantic, kind hearted, hot tempered, my career will improve when I'm 35, until then it's deep shit, only earn enough to survive, but that's difficult because I like going out too much; will move home next year; will fall in love with a Vietnamese man, but he will not make me happy. I'll marry between 33-35 with someone from my home country (didn't have the heart to start arguing there) but abroad, I have a big black mole somewhere (and again, I would have loved to show her my spotted back - ok too much info there), people like me, I'm a loyal friend, people listen to me, even older people and I am independent.

Check out "A fortune teller once told me" (Tiziano Terzani), and tell me what it's like cos I haven't read it yet...ehehe.

Nowt to do with Fortune Telling, but I love this picture and it was taken by Anne Marie at the conference. Will tell you all about that another time.

Maaah Graaazieeehhh

2006-11-26T09:03:00.000+01:00

Hey, hey, hey…haven’t updated the blog properly for a lifetime, so here it goes again. The thinking process began (finally) yesterday at the back of my Xe Om, as I was heading to the meeting point for the KOTO bike ride….I have so much to tell about everything that’s been going on so far, so resolution is that from now on I will share just about everything and anything that’s been happening. I can feel vibes of relief in all of you back home..ehehe.

And what better way to do it if not the day after one of the most amazing days I’ve had so far?

So, THANK YOU KOTO, for organising a fantastic day out in the country side (even if this means a sore bum during and after – for how long?). THANK YOU Steve, for being such a great organiser, for actually fundraising for me, and THANK YOU VSO for agreeing in paying up..
Deal was, get up incredibly early on a Saturday morning, to get on a bike to ride 80 km from Hanoi to Ba Vi – in principle all super mega ueber wrong things for me, really…but I got up unexpectedly enthusiastic about the whole thing, took a Xe Om, made my resolutions about the blog, met up with Mike, headed to the chilled out bike ride, crossed amazing landscapes, villages, super smiley people, kids shouting Helloooooo, holding out their hands for cheery hi fives (which caused a slight collision with Mike – and thank you Mike for preventing me going face on the ground), stopping for a Hanoi beer out of Hanoi, getting a elbow-to-hand and full face sun burn, and….being the very last rider of the KOTO bike ride challenge.

Half way through (so to say) we had fine break near a beautiful pagoda, where I managed to scoff as many delicious KOTO muffins as I could – THANK YOU Martin for being such an amazing cooking teacher! Apple, Mango and Papaya muffins..mmmhhh.

with Steve and Martin - holding me upright

It was a real success, and for Steve, his last KOTO event as a VSO volunteer – well done. As for me, I managed to crawl home, have some dinner before collapsing – and today, I can move!? Some people say it’s only for today and I will be paralysed in the next few days, unless I do some sports today… You’ll be shocked to hear that I am NOT going to do any of that today. There.

Mike - brilliant team mate!

Visit: www.ourmaninhanoi.com

www.kotobikeride.com

hello

2006-11-17T08:36:00.000+01:00

don't ask me...I don't know what I'm doing. In about 4 hours the Japanese First Lady will come to visit Cafe Smile, there's about five million things to do, and here I am updating my blog.

Well, firstly, I wish to apologise ...in fact, i have to go.

I'm alive though.

muac

Thay Hung

2006-11-03T06:28:00.000+01:00

Thay Hung is our Vietnamese language teacher, a wonderful man who's lead us into the magic maze of the Northern Vietnamese language and culture since the day we arrived (and the following 5 weeks in In Country Training - the picture above was taken during one of those lessons).
Thay Hung is one of my favourite men in Vietnam. This is not only because he thinks I am very beautiful and young, and approves of my smoking and liking to go out a lot. I like Thay Hung because he's the most wonderful gossip in the world...

The set up is that VSO house number one (Ruth and I) have a 2 hours lesson every Monday evening. This is where Thay Hung collects the information on VSO house number 2 (Mike, Marvin, Derek - and lesson guests Richard, Catherine and Alice):
- Are they married?
- Have they got children?
- Where are they from?
- Are they in love?

All for the sake of language practise, of course...as Thay Hung reiterates "I don't care if you don't tell me the truth, it's just to get used to the structure of the sentence"
So one evening Thay Hung taught us the word for "attractive" (which, of course, I do not remember for the life of me) with the following question:
TH - Em Patty, who do you think is the most attractive at VSO?
EP - mmmh, let me think. ehhh. I think everyone is attractive at VSO. (I know the score now, there's no fooling me! ...I think)
TH - Ok, so do you think that Anh Marvin is attractive?
EP - Yes, I think Anh Marvin is attractive
TH - Do you think Anh Derek is attractive?
EP - Thay Hung? I thought I could call Derek "Chu"
TH - That's not important. Do you think that Anh Derek is attractive?
EP - Yes, I do. I think all the men in VSO house 2 are attractive.

So this happened some weeks ago. Then I get an email from one of the VSO House n 2 yesterday, saying "We know that you think that Marvin is the most handsome of the VSO house n 2 - when we told Thay Hung it would be an idea to maybe send an email to your boyfriend, he responded: oh no! she said that before they got together!" (which is, obviously a lie...)

Viva Thay Hung. I love him to bits.

live from Hanoi...

2006-09-29T04:30:00.000+02:00

Hello everyone,
you'll never believe what I just saw, just about 2 minutes ago!!!
To set the scene: it's 9.25 am, I'm home (on holiday!!), in my room, checking my emails, and sipping coffee.

Friggin' dogs downstairs in the neighbour's courtyard are barking as per usual...until the barking becomes a strange noise, too hard to describe. Which is why I looked out of my window and a man was pushing the fluffy dog - ok looked scabby and scary, especially when it charges towards you when all you want to do is open your gate - in a small cage at the back of his motorbike.

Then the man proceeded in taking his wallet out and pay our Man Bac An 70.000VND and go away.

Now ok, the four of us in the house have not been very generous towards these dogs, more than once we wished that someone would buy them to put them on a grill. But did it really have to happen?

Then again, annoying bastards never failed to scare the shit out of us...so....

MOVING swiftly on, seen that I'm at it, I might as well tell you that I'm on holiday because my friend Kate is coming all the way from the UK to see me!!! I'm deliriously happy, it's the first real friend who comes to visit - had others but before they arrived they were friends' friends, and then also became my friends, but you see how special this is, right?

So, I'm incredibly happy. But that's only one side of the story, because I am also incredibly sad - I thought that the super highs and super lows that one gets in Vietnam would occurr separately, in fact mine now it's an emotional rollercoaster because it's now my turn to see people leaving.

I remember, and I always refer to it, when I first talked to Our Man in Hanoi www.ourmaninhanoi.com (sorry, can't be bothered doing the linking bit in a swish way!) probably at a difficult time for him, when some of his closest friends were leaving, when he said how tiresome it was to get close to someone, and then see them go, and that it all seemed to happen at the same time, then you think to yourself "I'm never going to let anybody else be that close to me!" but we start all over again. (OMIH, taking a lot of poetic license, as you can see..)

And this is it. In the space of one week, three of the most important people in my life in Hanoi have left/are about to leave (today!): my housemate, best friend, colleague (and much more...), Liam has gone back to the UK; my closest colleague and friend Phuong, gone to study in France for a year; and Hilary, my friend and person I admire the most, is leaving today.

But you see, now, back to what OMIH was saying as well, Hanoi is like that. Now besides the people I've just mentioned, who came here on a temporary basis - with the exeption of Phuong, who has been given an excellent opportunity - the cycle of life in Hanoi for people who aren't sure whether they should stay or go seems to be 3 years at the most. And you, newly arrived, get the feeling that you got here right at the end of those 3 years, and as you introduce yourself, you're saying goodbye.

Ohhh, sorry, don't think I'm making much sense now.

Now I'll just enjoy the peace of one less barking sound.